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THE DEBRIEF: ONLOAN'S SCANDI DESIGNERS AT CPFW SS22

STINE GOYA

SS22 is looking like sunshine thanks to Stine Goya, whose catwalk was a parade of the designer’s signature prints and sugary hues. 

 

The collection held British art collective, The Bloomsbury Group (of which Virginia Woolf and her painter sister Vanessa Bell were members) as muse, along with its countryside headquarters. Inspiration landed as checkerboard sweater vests, the Stine Goya peplum-ed blazers we’ve held dear, and dresses in floaty shapes.

 

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BY MALENE BIRGER

“Nomadic and otherworldly yet grounded in the present – this is contemporary minimalism with a nod to the past,” explained Copenhagen Fashion Week of By Malene Birger’s collection, presented via film. 

 

Apart from a spontaneous use of velvet (unusual for Summer), the label’s brilliant SS22 picks up where its Autumn-Winter left off, with silhouette and texture in-keeping with all things exuberance. But as for the muse, this season the designer leaves us with mystery, saying “I hope [my work] is perceived as bohemian luxe. I just want it to be super free.” 

 

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RODEBJER

“Elevated reality” continues on at Rodebjer, which is no surprise given that designer and founder Carine told us recently “being practical and visionary at the same time is important, as women want to live their lives without restrictions, while still looking good.” This duality manifested as knitted twin sets you’ll want to wear again – to everywhere; trench coats for keeps; and fresh inspiration to wear the sandals reissued from a past design that were “a little bit ahead” of their time.

 

Rodebjer swapped a catwalk presentation to showcase via fashion film instead, and explained to Vogue she’s “trying to be as constructive as possible” when it comes to the mood, fashion and the environmental crisis – sustainability being “the full focus” of the brand right now.

 

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BAUM & PFERDGARTEN

Designed with Finnish designer Alvar Aalto’s “very famous Savoy vase… and [the] modernistic and monumental straight shapes, which he’s also famous for,” Baum & Pferdgarten’s SS22 is a flurry of form and function. Think longline coats, track tops, dresses of tiered frills, and suits with straight leg trousers; lilac, powder blue and candy floss pink, peppered with black, zesty orange, lemon and flashes of silver.

 

Entitled ‘New Spirit’, B&P explained to Vogue that designs were inspired by Aalto’s way of never doing “anything without thinking about who would use his things. […] This idea about doing products which we can all live in and we can all have a great life in is also part of the collection’s ideas.”

 

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MOTHER OF PEARL

Like Onloan, designer Amy Powney’s mission is to fix the fact that “fashion shouldn’t come at a cost to the planet in which we live. But we shouldn’t have to compromise style for ethics either.” And, through her sustainably made (via artisan factories) SS22 pieces, designed here in London, it seems she’s more than cracked it. 

 

“Classic but never boring” is the brand’s calling card, with wardrobe staples bearing playful, considered details being a signature. This new collection is no different; elevated buttoning and playful sleeves turning cardigans and jumpers into things you’ll treasure. We can also appreciate the billowy silhouettes of the trousers and dresses, which promise to work with your body over the years you wear and re-wear Mother of Pearl’s clothes.

 

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DESIGNERS, REMIX

“Longevity over newness” is the label’s ethos, with a concentration on quality, functional pieces. And, looking at the runway presented for SS22, that’s just what we got from Charlotte Eskildsen.

 

The designer was inspired by the artist Hockney’s recent work, to add “all the colours” to their vision for Spring-Summer, as well as “women’s empowerment with a Sex and the City attitude, captured through the celebration of the 90’s with sweats, contrasts, sexiness and a new minimalism.” Interesting stuff.

 

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